Returning to the Lake in 1879
Recently, we republished an excerpt from the diary of Esther Palmer Clark, who visited Lake Minnetonka in the summer of 1879. If you haven’t read the first part, we highly recommend you do before reading this one. However, they are not mutually exclusive and can be enjoyed individually.
This portion of Clark’s diary picks up as her excursion steamer is departing Rockwell’s Island, known today as Shady Island. She recounts the following:
“We have left Rockwell’s Island and we are passing a point where tall old trees bare of all foliage, nothing but the tall gray stumps and dry old limbs with green underbrush and vines so thick. It seemed all darkness, and seemed as if it might be the headquarters of all bad things on the lake. We were told these old trees were the homes of the Eagle and all the spy glasses were pointed that way and every little boy thought he saw an Eagle’s nest and I think they did or something that looked like one.
Now the Eagles are forgotten, for the whistle is sounded and all are startled for fear there is danger, but no, the Captain of our little boat is only saluting Cranes Island and waking the inhabitants. Suddenly the little island, which is covered with the grandest old trees, is alive with great monster birds that look as if their weight would crush the tree tops. They fly round and round to warn us not to intrude. So we leave them in their lofty home and hurry on to other scenes. Steamboats are seen in different directions out with pleasure parties. Handkerchiefs are waved and everyone seems so happy. Now the sun comes out in all its glory for the first time in the day and waves take on their hue of burnished gold. How brightly beautiful the lake is now surrounded by its border of waving green. For a short time we sail through golden seas, then the sun takes pity on our dazzled eyes and draws a cooling veil before her brilliant face and the lake once more takes on the color of the clouds that made the day so cool and pleasant. We are now circling round homeward bound. Yes, there is Cranes Island, we all remember that, for there are the great dark birds on the watch to give us warning as we approach too near, and that pretty little dark green spot is the last we shall see of the cozy little home of Rockwell’s. We take another look for the Eagle’s nest as we go back. All the boys wish they had guns and one boy had a pistol he fired off on the lower deck. All jump to our feet almost afraid we were shot, but he did no mischief, only to frighten us out of our wits.
Now we are all in sight of the Narrows and all wear anxious faces for fear we can’t get through, but we did at last, and bidding the Upper Lake with all its beauty good-by, sailed quickly over cool waters to the beautiful park where we had left our companions. We’re almost there, for there are the bold towers peeping over the tree tops and the whistle sounds its loudest notes to warn the people we’re coming. They hear and see us for there they come with all speed for fear of being left. Parties are out in little sail boats. Two young ladies are in one little boat alone. How they hurry and try to keep up with us as we pass them but we leave them behind. The young people shout and wave their handkerchiefs telling them they will be left, but the good old boat waited for them all. All are on board and we take a farewell view of this delightful park, which many will never see again, and are gliding over the rippling waves back to Excelsior. We make a short stay at this place and take on those that had spent the day there. The sail back to Wayzata is delightful. The sun is hid and just breezy enough to make it pleasant to be on the lake with the little waves chasing each other back and forth as far as the eye could see.
Now we come in sight of the great Southern Hotel. The whistle is sounded once more as we near the wharf and we are told the boat will stop twenty minutes, time for us all to go up and see the wonder of the lakes. The house has a very long front with a broad piazza around front and sides and commands one of the most extensive views of these great lakes. The hotel is placed on a very high hill, about half-way up is a natural terrace that is and will be made most lovely with gravely walks and choice shrubbery, flowers, arbors, rustic seats, and everything that can please the visitors. When it is finished I think I shall board there for a few weeks and enjoy the cool nice breeze that comes so refreshing from these northern lakes. Nearly everyone climbs the hill and feels repaid for their visit to the Morrow House. The whistle warns us the time is up so we all have to leave this delightful place, but all wish to come again and as many can will. (1)
For the last time the whistle’s shrill sound are heard and our beautiful ride on the lake is over. We’re here in Wayzata. The cars are waiting on the track to take us back to our beautiful Minneapolis, and since we are all tired we wished to see it. What a rush everyone makes to be first on the cars. Everyone finally finds a good seat. Several ladies’s have baskets of pond lilies, others have beautiful ferns and other treasures gathered at the lakes. We now say good-by to the lake and the little boat that has carried us safely over so many miles and wish we may someday come again.”(2)
Footnotes:
A paragraph between this and the following was exempted from this recounting for the sake of length for this article. It has been preserved elsewhere, including the Lake Minnetonka Historical Society’s archives.
A short closing was exempted from this recounting as it does not have direct relevance to the Minnetonka area.
Bibliography of Sources:
This article was made in conjunction with Claudia Schuman, great-great granddaughter of Esther Palmer Clark.
Photo postcard from the Minnetonka Minute collection.
